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UPDATE: 6/6/2012 OK I CAN NOT GET THE RESIN TO TAKE PAINT SO BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD SORRY .


ok first i took the measurements from here
THANKS GUYS
ok then i made a wooden boxmold (I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS )



i poured the smooth-on liquid resin waited then had to beat the frak out of the mold to get it out see i didnt know that it would bond to the wood :-[
so after scaring the neighbors i finally got it out
i poured the resin into a cap put a screw in it to make the light


and after sanding i dremaled the lines in it but oops drilled to many
so back to the grinder(glad my dad was a Carpenter )
here it it smooth again


ok back to the tabel saw here it is with the right 3 lines

here it is with some dremel work


here it is sanded i used a cut piece of wood to sand with to give me the angle i wanted



and here it is sanded




as you can see my cast has ALOT OF BUBBLES so next step is spot putty more to come ................
i posted this on black squadron great bunch of guys over there too.

Nice work so far!

Are you going to make a fully working, lighted version?

not with this one i have not ideal how too with a solid resin one, did some solinite charges have a toggle switch on them or was i seeing things i just watched the gun on ice planet zero and i though there was something else on top, but cant find pics, so i guess this one will be just solid

Looks good so far. Wooden mold that is a first for me I think. Looks like it worked.

yea i didnt have latex and i have some old resin and a buch of extra wood so i though lets try it i had to beat the thing with a dumbbell to get the resin out thats what i said i wont recommend it and i even had it coated with petrolatum jelly and mold release but it gets hot and my plastic is old it bubbled and expanded but yea i thing its working

Great work, ncchuck!
Thank you for sharing the photos. Love it, can't wait to see more.

Very nice work so far on this

Although I don't know if you're aware of this or not, but you might have saved yourself a lot of time by getting yourself a 20-round M-16 magazine (scroll down a bit to see them), which is what they used to make the original solinite charges. They're easy to find and relatively cheap - mostly because everyone but Vietnam reenactors have taken to using the larger curved 30-rounders.

thank you , i always thought they were a toy gun part need to keep those in mind if i can get this one finished , i cant get primer to stick going to have to figure something out

Glad to help! I've known many people to use these on the various other prop boards out there with some fairly good success. I think, though, you would have to grind the top off to a flat edge, as the curved-in "lips" of the top of the magazine won't fit a proper surface to put your timer dial, switch and light. You would also, of course, need to remove the spring and feed plate before the top was opened up - remove the bottom plate to pull out the guts and replace. Then you would prime it, paint it and top it off with a thin red strip of adhesive pin-striping. If you can find it (it's a little more expensive), there may be magazines out there with parkerized finishes. It makes for a slightly more matte finish, but it holds paint better (designed to hold oil better and longer as it uses micro-pitting) and you can usually counter the surface texturing with a high-gloss enamel.

Thanks for this in-depth information, 137th Gebirg!

Most welcome! I have all the parts myself, sitting in a box - just need to sit down and actually build the thing.

Will it feature electronics (lights)?