Cylon Raider OOB Build

[Tinman]

Inspired by the great work of C75 I decided to crank up my modeling assembly line just to see if I actually COULD still build them after so many years. Just to pick one out I decided to do a OOB (Out of the Box, no modifications) build the REVELL 30th ANNIVERSARY CYLON RAIDER kit.

NOTE: To anyone that wants to build a Cylon Raider - get this version of the kit. It has provisions for lighting plus has improved, better looking parts for the engines, better set of decals and a better stand.
Bad News - while this version of the kit has new parts - it is still the original 1978 mold and it has had had a LOT of use - to the point were parts of the body are warped and will have to be re-aligned. Plus it still has the holes in front that the original version had for the rubber-band powered torpedo shooters. These holes will either have to be covered up or filled in.

Unfortunately, some of the early pictures of the build were lost when my computer got fried by a power surge the power company says there is no way we can be having (FRAKKERS!) so.... I will put up what I have.

Below is the Raider about 90% complete with the major painting and detailing done. Cockpit and engines painted, heat exchangers, and sensor strips and various odds & ends detailed so they will stand out from the basic craft color.

Underside of the Raider showing most of the detail painting in place.

Close-up of the in-progress, detail painting on the engine compartment.


Next....pics of the weathering.

<S>!

[Red Eye]

Nice build so far!

[GoldCylon]

Have you done a side by side view of an original 70's version to the new version to see what the detail differences are. It looks great so far.

[Tinman]

Have you done a side by side view of an original 70's version to the new version to see what the detail differences are.

There are only really two differences between the Monogram and Revell-Monogram versions and the improved Revell 30th Anniversary version:

1. The 1978 Monogram version had a rubber-band powered missile launcher in each intake. This isn't in the second two versions.

2. The Revell 30th Anniversary version has the improvements shown in the pic above.

To check out the differences in greater detail check this thread that shows the building instructions for both versions of the Raider kit:
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=508
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=767
Kit Compairison:
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=550
30th Anniversary Kit Review:
http://www.ipmsusa2.org/reviews2/spsf-v ... er-30a.htm

<S>!

[Cylon-Knight]

Wow that top one in that two up photo - NICE!!

[Tinman]

Basic weathering done. Most of this will be rubbed off to even up the scheme and make it blend in more with the paint scheme and to bring out the detail more.


Before and after shots. You can see how the weathering brings out the details and gives the model a more "used" look, like a unit that actually has seen combat.


Next time, applying the decals....

<S>!

[Red Eye]

Great work!

I hope mine will be looking like yours someday...

It still lies unbuild in my shelf together with the rest of the kits (Galactica (1997 re-release), Viper and Basestar (both 30th Anniversary))...

[Cylon-Knight]

Awesome stuff Tinman! LOOKING GOOD.

[GoldCylon]

I was wondering about the decals, but thought you might have had some special way of giving them the worn look different than the rest of the ship. It looks great no matter with or with out the decals. Coming along very quick. What is the grime/paint your using for the used look?

[Tinman]

I was wondering about the decals, but thought you might have had some special way of giving them the worn look different than the rest of the ship. It looks great no matter with or with out the decals. Coming along very quick. What is the grime/paint your using for the used look?

What I will do is put down a layer of Future so the decals will hold well to the Flat Paint Surface. (Flat Paint is rough and doesn't hold decals like Gloss paint does). This also gets rid of the "Silver" color of the background decal film.
Then will apply decals with a coat of Micro-set & Mirco-Sol so they really hook on.
Then will seal it with a coat of Dullcoat (or Glosscoat as applies).
Will weather the decals again so they match hull paint weathering.
Then a full coat of Dullcoat over the whole model to even up everthing.

<S>!

[dbhs]

This is looking great and I love the paint job so far. On the decals, I tend to put them on right after the base paint (after a gloss coat) but I've seen lots of guys do them during or after weathering as you're doing. It's the results that matter, not the methods.

Looking great.

This is a really fun kit to put together.

[Tinman]

Hello Again Folks!

Sorry for the big delay on this project. Some changes have came along in my work schedule finally freeing up some more time for my hobbies so I decided to dig this one out of the closet and get it back on the work table and hopefully finished to hep bolster our glorious Cylon Navy! So anyway.... on with the show...........

WEATHERING:
I have added a second coat of darker weathering to the model after letting the first one dry for some time. (You can compare with pics above). This one also uses a shade of gray that is darker than the base coat and the first weathering coat to make it fill voids missed by the 2nd coat. Once this was done I went back and repainted a few of the details I wanted to stand out or that I had accidently covered up with the weathering.
A note on weathering - you will NEVER get it right the first time. PERIOD. You will get it all done then notice a spot you missed, or don't like, or smugged with your finger, etc. That is one of the reasons I use water based washes I make up myself, you can always change them, lighten or darken them and if you mess up - just get a wet piece of smooth towel or rag (don't want to scratch the base coat or rub it off with a rough one) and wipe the biggest part off.

DECALS:
In the photos below we are putting the decals on the model. As listed in detail in a post above we lay down a coat of Future floor wax where the decal will go (a must have for any model with a flat or matt finish IMHO) and let it dry. Then we paint on a coat of Micro Set decal solution (This and a bottle of Micro Sol is another MUST HAVE for any serious modeler, also IMHO) just before laying the wet decal down. Blot out all the water and air bubbles and then another coat of Micro Set and repeat making sure to get all the wrinkles out and have it conform to any bumps our curves in the model.

Here we go with half the racing stripes on the bottom of the fuselage.

Now with all four applied.


The Cylon Pentagon insignia go on the same way. I had previously painted a patch of Future where they would go and let it dry. You may can see the light shinning off the patch around the insignia. Not to worry this will disappear when you spray the coat of Dullcoat over the model to make the weathering paint and decals blend together.


All she likes now is the "Crecent" stripes on the upper wings (seen on the box pic in first post). The kit has nice decals for these but there are so many bumps and barnicles on the upper wings it is impossible to use them. Best to just use them as a guide for your paint masks then put them in your spares box for use on another project.

We will cover the masking and painting of these on the next post. (Hopefully quicker than it took to get this one posted!)

[GoldCylon]

Outstanding paint work. Hats off to you, and your skill. The ship is something to be proud of. Thanks for sharing the information about the build, and the paint it up work.

[Cylon-Knight]

AWESOME TINMAN!
As soon as the Raider is able to fly it can destroy those EVIL clothespins! I see them there next to the Raider, threatening the Cylon Empire! PARISH CLOTHESPINS!


Can

[Red Eye]

One more Raider for our fleet!

The Atlantia Death Squadron surely comes together now!

Great work, by the way!